From the genius team that bought us The Palomar and The Barbary, comes their elegant new project – Evelyn’s Table. Situated in the cramped basement of the 250-year-old pub The Blue Posts, Evelyn’s Table is listed as an eleven-seat kitchen bar serving seasonal Italian cuisine and locally sourced fish.
I was cordially invited to try the experience by my dear pal Samphire and Salsify, who I met outside the venue with an excited grin on his face – anticipating good things from our evening.
Having tottered down the rickety staircase, we took a seat at the end of the bar with a clear view of the petite kitchen. The daily fresh fish specials were thrust upon us by a chef who was proud of his catch. We were immediately drawn to the hake cheeks and the lemon sole so listened to our instincts and ordered them immediately. We also ordered the mackerel from the fresh fish selection.
First arrived cured monkfish, Sicilian tomatoes, avocado and coriander oil – a clean, fresh start to the experience. To follow from the antipasti selection, a delicious plate of Vitello Tonnato, rocket mayonnaise and kohlrabi.
As is tradition, our pasta (or primi) course arrived next – we shared Tagliatelle, girolles, chilli and parmesan. The fresh pasta absorbed the chili-infused olive oil with the mushrooms balancing the whole dish with a rich earthiness.
The pick of the fish dishes was the Hake cheeks. The tender morsels of flesh were well cooked and served simply with a salsa Verde and salmon caviar. I wish the Lemon Sole had been prepared with such simplicity. Billed as Lemon Sole, sweetcorn, Lyonnaise onion, girolle – the accompanying elements detracted from the elegance of the fish. This is, however, my only criticism. The mackerel that landed moments later was allowed to sing a song of its own. Grilled and served with samphire, the pairing of the oily fish with the salty coastal vegetable was a marriage of flavours.
I would highly recommend you visit Evelyn’s Table. You can reserve a seat, so no queuing, the food is really rather good, and the intimacy makes it feel quite special. Providing you’re not claustrophobic, get booking.