Wright Brothers – Soho

One of the greatest aspects of growing up and strapping on the cloak of adulthood is the new relationship you build with your parents – we no longer require their round-the-clock support, albeit most are still happy to provide it, and they become close pals. For me, a great marker in this process is taking your parents out for supper, a simple yet effective way of demonstrating your independence and your appreciation of their efforts.

When I heard mother was working in Soho for the day, I took the opportunity to book a table at Wright Brothers in Kingly Court and treat her to a plethora of fishy delights. Billed as a Pan-Asian seafood restaurant, Wright Brothers have become well known on the London seafood circuit with restaurants in five locations, this was my first visit to the any of them.

Myself, my mother and the Colombian were sat in the dimly lit basement, away from the busy cocktail bar – which on this occasion was favourable. I liked our slightly more secluded spot due to the clear view of the kitchen – I could see what was leaving the pass and not only did it tease my appetite, it provided me with inspiration for my own order. Providing the chefs don’t pick their nose in open view, I’m not adverse to the open kitchen.

Collectively, we decided to start with a platter of oysters, which were fresh and cleansing and particularly delicious simply dressed with a squeeze of lemon and a drop of tabasco. Next arrived the main events. The Colombian had ordered soy poached salmon with Asian greens – the mouthful I ate was tasty, the salmon was well cooked and the soy did not overpower the delicate fish, nevertheless nothing to write home about. Mother had ordered a more extravagant dish – East Sussex crab, black pepper, basil leaves, almonds & yoghurt. The crab was delicious, rich and tender it was easily removed from the shell. The unanimous decision, after we all attempted to finish the monstrous portion, was that the dish was a little too rich – not one for the faint hearted. My own main was delightful, pan seared whole lemon sole with salsify and clam sauce, a special on that day. The fish was expertly cooked and the bold flavoured sauce complimented the flaky white fish well.

For dessert, the Colombian and I shared half a chocolate fondant and half a cheese board each. The fondant was a little overcooked as the lava centre failed to erupt to its full potential – rich and chocolatey nonetheless. The selection of Neal’s Yard cheeses stole the show in the final act – class is permanent I suppose.

Wright Brothers was a good venue from which to demonstrate my new-found adult independence – everyone enjoyed the evening and the food, but there was nothing particularly mind-blowing that landed on our table. No doubt I will return, especially for the oyster happy hour on Sundays, but next time I wine and dine a parent, I’ll be trying somewhere new.


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